“Living Board”

This is the first entry in a planned series exploring the concept of a Living Board: the idea of a spray wall adapting to its user base over time. It can’t adapt if it doesn’t change; and such, The Reset, is a core tenet. Let’s talk about when to do it and how to do it well.

First, the anti-Living Board…

Legacy boards are good too.

Legacy board: walls that don't change

In some cases, they’re preferred or even necessary — big commercial gyms and standardized board systems come to mind.

But, it's a huge, missed opportunity for learning… especially for new spray wall setters.

Chances are you won’t get everything right on the first spray, even the second. I know that I didn’t. Lean into that and embrace the opportunities that it provides. 

Are there certain “hot” holds that everyone gravitates toward when setting? Think about how interesting it would be to use them in different grip positions or sections on the wall. And then at some point, let yourself explore and learn from it.

Another good way to progress through board sets is by incorporating a few Legacy Problems. Do you have a hard testpiece with high quality movement, or maybe a really unique move? Carry it over. Leave those holds right where they are. Not only does your new set start with a certified banger built in, you also get an opportunity to progress over a longer period and revisit the same testpiece.

I have one particular problem on my board, Black Center, that’s been on there from the beginning. The finish hold and the last hold have changed, but it’s essentially the same climb. Not only does everyone get to check-in and float their former proj, but it's also a nice bit of nostalgia from when it all started.

One caveat I’ll add is to avoid combining any hot holds and legacy problems. Hot holds are best when you get to move them around. And legacy problems exist when you don’t move them, obviously. If there is some overlap, consider swapping in a slightly worse but similar type of hold for the hot one. You’re getting stronger, right? So the problem can get a little harder.

It’s ok to admit mistakes and improve upon them

We all make them. For me, it’s usually on the corner of a volume or some macro. I’ll have 4 jibs screwed in, making the sickest pinch thing. Sometimes it works, but usually we take it down. It’s better that way.

Always be on the lookout for new/improved hold selection

If you’re like me, you’ve always got an ear to the ground. There’s usually deals to be had for those willing to look for ‘em. So, what happens when you come up on something better than what you already have? Without the hard and fast rule against resetting, it allows you the freedom to fully embrace any opportunity that comes your way.

Volumes are the most dynamic aspect of a Spray Wall

Allow yourself to move them around and you’ll experience their full range of versatility. I’m just saying; if you’re only using them as starting holds, or one has never moved from its spot in the middle, then you’re missing out.

Types of resets

The Full

The most involved. But, also a good way to retain some continuity over a longer period of time - because of the work required, you’re only likely to do this so often. This strategy can work really well on a schedule. Whether that’s personal, seasonal, etc. 

It’s nice to have a few legacy problems to carry over and help ease the workload.

Otherwise, take 'em all down. This isn't a how-to-spray guide, so we'll skip that part for now.

Want a pro tip? It just so happens that around November each year a bunch of companies will have sales on holds and volumes. This makes it easy to plan around a time where you might have an influx of new holds to play with.

The Section

More manageable in terms of workload. If going this route, I would pick two or three small sections in different areas of the board to reset at once, rather than one larger section. This will allow you to move some holds around more dynamically, instead of being restricted to one section.

The Spray

This is a solid option and can also be used as a quick refresher in between longer resets. It’s best to try and take note over time of a variety of holds that don’t get used much. Pay special attention to anything that feels weird or tweaky to grab. Once you have a good amount that needs to move, strip them all at once.

This is as much about opening up quality space for holds to move into, as it is taking down specific holds. If you only strip holds on the edges, then you can only spray them back on the edges (assuming the wall is somewhat filled in).

You can take this as far as you want. But at some point, you’ll be in full reset territory, and that’s ok too.

When respraying, try to put holds back on at different orientations than they were before or in different areas. It might be useful to also consider turning some holds that didn't even move. 

Give yourself some grace when forerunning. If something doesn’t work quite right, or should be adjusted, then change it. It’s just another opportunity to learn why.

What it looks like long-term

The idea here isn’t to have your impact driver and wrenches out as much as your chalk bucket and shoes. We also don’t condone dumbing-down your board whenever a grip is hard to hold. Quite the opposite, actually.

Instead, use these strategies to push that upper limit of your spray wall. You will be stronger after a year of climbing on it. That’s the idea, right? Let’s keep things fresh and keep progressing.

Fired up to strip your wall?

Look, I’m sure we’ll all get there — myself included. The Rage Cave: set perfectly, each hold in its most optimal space and orientation. Chef’s kiss. 

And then I’ll wake up from that fairy tale and plot my next reset.

-Lincoln

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